Strippy Table Runner Class

STRIPPY TABLE RUNNER

Class Date:  January 23rd, 2017 👍💓😀

Name :  "Strippy Table Runner" 

Instructor:  Dorris

Completed Table Runner Measurements :   16" x 50". 

Requirements to bring to the class  are:

Prepare  two 16" squares that are made up of approximately 8-20 strips of varying widths.  

They can either be made with, or without, a muslin backing.  

Dorris used a muslin back  and used the flip and sew method. 

You will need co-ordinating Fabric for a  1 inch floating border, 

plus fabric for a 1 ½ inch border,

and then fabric for  a 2 ½ or 3 inch outside border, and

binding, backing and batting 

Bring all of the above items to class.  

Dorris does not have exact yardage for the above, she just purchased yardage for each colour that she wanted.  

NOVEMBER 19, 2016, GRAND FORK'S ANNUAL CHRISTMAS CRAFT SALE

Further Instructions for the Chenille Pillow Class, Monday, November 21, 2016, for a 18" x 18" pillow form

Assembling your Chenille Pillow

1.        Layer the backing and pillow top, right sides together, stitch around the edge.

2.        Trim all those tatty edges to cut down on the edge "bulk” being careful not to snip machined stitches. 

3.   Turn inside out and gently pull out corners.

4. Put into the washer and then tumble dry with a towel.

YOU'RE ALMOST FINISHED!!

Pop in your pillow form, wiggle it around to make sure it is even inside cover!!

Note:    I like my pillows full and  fluffy...........if you like you can use 20" x 20” cuts of fabric instead of the measurement that I gave you last week and the pillow form will fit loosely inside the cover and will be flatter!

Grand Forks Annual Christmas Craft-Fair

CLASS DATE:  NOVEMBER 21, 2016

                                                 
 Overview

Making your own chenille is very simple.  It involves sewing several layers of fabric, on the bias, in parallel lines about ½ inch apart and then slicing through all but the final 2 layers of fabric. 

For this project you will need:

1   18” x18” Pillow form 

4  Fat Quarters of Flannel(making sure they are 18” x 22”)

     *This is very forgiving project when choosing fabric colours ………you can use plaids, strips, contrasting colours with darks and lights, your top fabric will be the prominent colour!

2  Fat Quarters of homespun cotton for the foundation 

¾ meter of backing fabric 

You will also need:

  Sewing Machine

  Scissors or Chenille cutter

  Rotary Cutter

  Long ruler for marking your sew lines(or two shorter rulers butted against each other)

  Pen or Pencil

  Thread to Match the top and bottom layer of fabric

INSTRUCTIONS TO FOLLOW: 
NOTE:   Susie will have instructions available for you on  Monday, November 7, 2016.  

Reversible Quilt as You Go

A Note from Lorae:

Dear Quilting friends

 Please prepare for the sashing class on Monday Nov 7 at 10:00.

Bring your machines and project. I will show a step with samples and then you will sew.  Then we will do next step etc until you have all the techniques required.  Please bring :

at least 4 blocks which are finished and squared up Sashing for side one - 1 1/4" coordinating fabric in long strips.  Don't need to cross cut.

Sashing for side 2 - 1 3/4" coordinating fabric in long strips.  Don't cross cut.  Doesn't need to match side 1.

Appropriate colored thread for bobbins if you wish.

The usual sewing tools

Your camera if you wish but I will be creating a tutorial with lots of pictures for you.        See you next Monday

See Lorae's Tutorial Below: 

MAKING THE BLOCKS

Decide what size you want for the finished block including 1/4" seam allowance all around.  Suggest no smaller than 4 1/2" and no larger than 12 1/2".  For a queen sized quilt, I used 9 1/2".    

Cut batting first.  It should be 1/2" larger than the size of your finished block.  If you are making a 9 1/2" block, then cut the batting 10" square.  Warm & White, Warm & Natural, or Bamboo is recommended.  Poly will slip when you are sewing.  Use an old blade in your rotary cutter when cutting batting.

Cut feature fabric squares for triangles.  These should be 1" larger than your finished block.  If you are making the 9 1/2" block, then cut squares 10 1/2".

Cut squares into triangles.  

For a queen size quilt, I cut 45 squares of each sides feature fabric.  This will give 90 blocks for each side.

Tutorial 4. 

Cut strips of your choice to cover the other half of each side of the block. These can be scraps pulled at random, or planned strips.  Strips of different widths give the best results.  Suggested size is between 1 1/2" and 3".  You will lose 1/2" on each strip to seam allowances.  Depending on how you arrange your strips, this could be a good place to use leftover triangles for the corners. 

I prefer to cut strips width of fabric when I can.  If you are using scraps, or cross cutting existing strips be sure they are at least 1" longer than you need.  Also be sure that the last strip or triangle will completely cover the batting and hang over at least 1/8".

Tutorial 5

Designate one feature fabric as SIDE 1, and the other as SIDE 2.

It doesn't matter which is which as long as SIDE 1 is always SIDE 1 and SIDE 2 is always SIDE 2.  Since it is reversible calling them right side and wrong side, or front side and back side doesn't work well.

Lay SIDE 1 triangle right side up on batting square.  Smooth out. Flip batting over and lay SIDE 2 triangle right side up on OPPOSITE half of batting square.  Smooth out.  The edges of fabric should completely cover the sides of the batting, and hang over just a tiny bit.  In the middle of the batting, the two triangles MUST overlap at least 1/4".

Tutorial 6

Lay a strip on top of SIDE 2, right sides together, raw edges even.  Pin through all layers.

Flip over and repeat process on SIDE 1, pining thru all layers.  Remove pins from SIDE 2.

Tutorial 7

When you place your strips, leave about 1/2" hanging over each edge.

Stitch with 1/4" seam allowance on SIDE 1 using walking foot for best results.

Clip threads but leave excess fabric strip for now unless it drives you crazy.  Then trim excess but leave 1/2" extra.  Finger press, or any other method you like, to press fabric over on SIDE 1.  Flip to SIDE 2 and press fabric over.  Return to SIDE 1.

Tutorial 8

Continue stitching strips and pressing on SIDE 1 until batting is covered.  Pining is optional for these strips.  As you can see, I didn't do a good job on the choice of strips to cover the batting.  However it is so forgiving, it will be ok.

Tutorial 9

For my demo purposes, pink is SIDE 1 and black is SIDE 2.

Flip block over to SIDE 2 and repeat process until it is covered.

Tutorial 10

You can chain piece if all your blocks to this point if you are comfortable with that. Then square up all at once.  If you prefer, square up each one as you finish it.  Using a squaring up ruler, trim all edges to square up your block to the desired finished size (9 1/2" for example).

Tutorial 11   - Sashing

When you have finished all the blocks for your project, then you will cut the sashing to join the blocks.

You may use the same color for both sides, or a different one for each side.

For SIDE 1 cut sashing strips 1 1/4" wide.  Width of fabric for length is best, but if you are using scraps make then at least 1" longer than the finished block size.  If your finished block is 9 1/2" then sashing strip should be at least 10 1/2" long.

For SIDE 2 cut sashing 1 3/4" wide.  Length info same as SIDE 1.  Press SIDE 2 sashing in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.

Tutorial 12   - Layout

Decide how you want to layout your blocks.  Variations are endless and there is no right or wrong.  Keep in mind that if you are wanting to match triangles or strips, they seldom line up perfectly.  Once you have chosen your layout, mark the blocks so you know in which order, which row, and always keep them oriented the same way.  Here are some layouts.

Tutorial 13

I found it easiest to put my blocks for each row in their own pile.  For a queen size quilt I would have 10 rows with 9 blocks across. Therefore 10 piles with 9 blocks in each pile.

Again you must be sure to keep the integrity of your pattern when you stack them up.

If this gets too complicated for you, the simplest and easiest is to arrange them all with

the triangle of SIDE 1 on lower left corner face up.  If you do it this way you can chain piece the SIDE 1 sashing.   

Stitch the 1 1/4" sashing right sides together to the Righthand side of each SIDE 1 block except the last block in the row.

If you stitch them individually then leave 1/2" hanging over at top and bottom of block.

chain piecing

Tutorial 14

Finger press the seam open.

Tutorial 15

The Sandwich

Now you are going to make the sandwich. 

Lay the next block SIDE 1 down on the Right Side of the sashing you just finished, raw edges even.  Be sure to line up the tops and bottoms of the two blocks exactly so the line is straight when you open them out after this seam is sewn.  SIDE 2 of the second block should be facing you.  Place the folded & pressed sashing for SIDE 2 on the right hand side of SIDE 2 with all raw edges even.  Pin.  Check that you have everything in the right sequence and properly aligned.  Stitch thru all thicknesses with 1/4" seam.

Tutorial 16 

Open out the blocks with SIDE 2 facing you.  Finger press or iron the sashing over the seam allowance.  Be sure the raw edges of the two blocks butt up and do not overlap. 

If all your seam allowances have been accurate, there will be no gaposis where the raw edges butt and the folded edge of SIDE 2 sashing will cover previous seam line when stitched down.

Open out the blocks with SIDE 2 facing you.  Finger press or iron the sashing over the seam allowance.  Be sure the raw edges of the two blocks butt up and do not overlap. 

If all your seam allowances have been accurate, there will be no gaposis where the raw edges butt and the folded edge of SIDE 2 sashing will cover previous seam line when stitched down.

Tutorial 17

Trim off excess

Tutorial 18 

Continue going across the row making twosies.  Remember the very last

>> block in the row doesn't have SIDE 1 sashing on the right hand side. 

>> This is where you will add borders or binding.

>> 

Tutorial 19   - Foursome

When you have made all the twosies, then join the twosies to make foursomes, the fours into eights etc until you have joined all the blocks in the row.  Set it aside and start on the next row.

Tutorial 20 - Joining Rows

Proceed in the same sequence to join rows.

Sew SASHING 1 to right side of bottom of SIDE 1.

Tutorial 21 - Press Seams Open

Tutorial 22.

Place SIDE 1 of the next row on the right side of SIDE 1 sashing.  SIDE 2 should be facing you.  Suggest you pin in place, ensuring all raw edges are even and ends line up.

Tutorial 23

Place Side 2 sashing raw edges even over SIDE 2, line everything up properly, pin thru all layers.  Remove first set of pins.  Stitch.

Tutorial 24

Open out seam.

Tutorial 25

Press sashing over seam.  Again butt the raw edges, pin the sashing.  Make sure everything is lined up properly.  Stitch thru all thicknesses.  Trim any excess.

Remember the last row won't have any sashing on the bottom because that is where the borders or binding will go.

Side 1.                                                                                             Side 2